iMoneyCoach on May 16th, 2012

Did you know that your spiritual life has an impact on your finances. Please realize from the outset that I am not making any judgments for what people believe here. But I would like to point out some important things and give some ideas for how you can improve your spiritual life in such a way that your finances can thrive.

First of all, do you know what you believe? Spiritually that is… Do you believe that you were created? And to what purpose? Do you believe that there is life after death? Do you believe that helping others is rewarding? Do you believe in prayer or some form of meditation? Do you believe in God or a higher power other than yourself?

When you are able to answer all of these questions and more, then you can work on living in a way where your actions match up with your beliefs. When your actions and beliefs line up, you will feel much less tension and stress, and you can enjoy life more.

But what does this have to do with money? When you feel that there is a purpose for your life and you are living it out, you are much less likely to make choices that resemble a mid-life crisis or that are destructive. When you have a purpose or goal to live for, you are more focused and can choose to NOT spend money on things that either will not help you reach that purpose or goal or that will push you away from it.

One important thing to note though: When you do sit down and think about what you believe spiritually, you may have the urge to make some life changes. Be sure that you think through those changes and how they affect your entire life before you make a drastic overhaul. We worked with a man once who was very generous and kind and also very successful as a real estate agent. But he felt empty spiritually. To remedy that he decided to quit his job and write spiritual books. While there’s nothing wrong with what he wanted to do, unfortunately he wasn’t very good at writing and couldn’t sell the books, and since he had quit his job he had no way to support his family, and they ended up losing their home, and the kids had to make huge changes to their college plans because he could no longer afford their tuition. A better solution might have been to cut back a little on work and make time to start writing on the side to see if it could go somewhere. It’s never a good idea to cut out your source of income without having another one in place.

So as you work through what you believe and where you are at in your spiritual life, remember to think about it in the context of your entire life, and don’t make total life changes without considering how it will affect you and the people around you. For more on the topics of your spiritual life and finances, please visit the iMoneyCoach University and start the iMoneyCoach Financial Life Training System online courses.

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iMoneyCoach on May 9th, 2012

It is a common misconception that budgets are only for poor people. In reality though, budgets are for everyone who wants to be able to hang onto their money and spend it on the things that are important to them. If you use money, a budget is a great tool that can help empower you and help your account balances grow.

In fact, not using a budget is a little bit like taking a road trip from New York to LA without a map, just hitting the road without any direction. You may know you need to head east, but who knows where you will end up. A budget helps you put your expenses in front of you so that you can prioritize. When you know what your goals are and where you want to end up financially, it can help you make everyday spending decisions much better and easier.

I know what you may be thinking now though. But budgeting is hard, I don’t know how to do it. Where do I even start? I’m glad you asked! To be totally honest with you, it does take a little time, but budgeting really isn’t that hard. In fact, if you know how to add and subtract, you can keep an accurate budget. All you have to do is put in the amounts you think you spend in each area, then keep track of your spending for a while to see what you really spend in each area so you can make changes wherever necessary.

Here at iMoneyCoach we often refer to a budget as a Spending Plan because that’s really what it is. You go to work to earn money which comes into your household. Your Spending Plan is what you are going to do with all of that money, including moving it to savings accounts (You may want to read more about the different types of savings accounts you need to have).

Bear in mind that budgeting is a process. It takes about 3-6 months of tracking your spending and making adjustments to get a budget that works. At iMoneyCoach we believe that you can make a budget that fits your life and will get you to your financial goals. Unlike many programs out there, we don’t believe you should just cut out every expense that is not absolutely necessary. We’ve seen too many people do that and end up in something similar to a mid-life crisis. Instead, you need to be sure to budget in rewards and treats for yourself, motivation to keep you going.

If you would like to learn more about how to create a budget that works you can always check out The Spending Plan Workbook (also available in ebook format!) or take our quick and easy online budgeting course at The iMoneyCoach University. And if you have any questions about budgeting or why you should have a spending plan, be sure to ask!

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We are constantly talking to people who are thinking about or are in the process of buying a new car. And that means making the big decision whether to buy a brand new or “new to me” car. Which is better? Does it really save you money to buy an older car? And what about financing the car? Is it really better to save cash or should you get a loan?

Recently Yahoo ran an article on the most cost efficient cars of 2012 and broke down the cost to drive each of these cars per mile over a 5-year period, including the cost of depreciation, taxes and insurance, gasoline, repairs, and maintenance. We decided to take this analysis a step further and make a comparison to see how much it would cost per mile if you were to instead purchase a 2009 model of that car. We then went even one step further to see what the difference would be if you were to buy the 2006 model.

The purpose of this research is to help you save money and be able to reach your financial goals. We want to show you how much depreciation can end up costing you so that you can make a wise decision and improve your monthly cash flow. Sure, if you buy the 2012 version you get that nice new car smell, but that’s about it. If you put in the time and effort to search for an older vehicle in good condition you can end up saving yourself thousands of dollars, money that can go towards the things that are truly important.

 

The Results Are In

Below are the results of our comparison study. The numbers for the 2012 models were based off this Yahooarticle. The 2006 and 2009 values were taken from actual cars for sale on Yahoo Autos that were the most comparable to the 2012 vehicles from the original article.

First, a note on depreciation: The value for depreciation for 2012 models was taken from a Kelley Blue Book analysis of each vehicle. We used that same depreciation number to calculate the depreciation for the 2009 and 2006 models. In some cases, the purchase price of the 2006 vehicle that we found on Yahoo Autos was lower than the expected value of the 2012 model after 5 years of depreciation. In those cases we put a $0 in the depreciation row. This does not mean that an older vehicle will not lose value. Rather, for the sake of making a better comparison between the newer and older models we decided that using the Kelley Blue Book depreciation numbers was the best route to take.

There is also a calculation for the cost of financing each car. All of these are based on a sales tax of 3.3% and a rate of 4.1% over 36 months. Note in the numbers below that you can easily save thousands of dollars by saving up ahead of time and paying with cash instead of getting a loan for your car.

 

SUVs

 

Ford Expedition – Full-Size SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

33678

70983

Base MSRP

$38,370

$23,998

$8,900

Depreciation

$25,077

$10,705

$0

Repairs

$2,106

$2,406

$2,706

Maintenance

$2,505

$2,505

$2,505

State Fees/Taxes

$3,369

$3,369

$3,369

Insurance

$4,405

$4,105

$3,805

Financing

$3,749

$1,697

$886

Fuel

$16,769

$16,769

$16,769

Total Five-Year Cost

$57,980

$41,556

$30,040

Cost Per Mile

$0.77

$0.55

$0.40

 

Jeep Wrangler – Mid-Size SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

40623

88328

Base MSRP

$22,845

$16,995

$10,688

Depreciation

$10,403

$4,553

$0

Repairs

$2,277

$2,577

$2,877

Maintenance

$1,817

$1,817

$1,817

State Fees/Taxes

$2,035

$2,035

$2,035

Insurance

$3,950

$3,650

$3,350

Financing

$2,266

$1,202

$1,064

Fuel

$14,596

$14,596

$14,596

Total Five-Year Cost

$37,344

$30,430

$25,739

Cost Per Mile

$0.50

$0.41

$0.34

 

Ford Escape Hybrid – Hybrid SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

41238

93803

Base MSRP

$31,395

$18,995

$9,575

Depreciation

$21,002

$8,602

$0

Repairs

$2,046

$2,346

$2,646

Maintenance

$1,700

$1,700

$1,700

State Fees/Taxes

$2,700

$2,700

$2,700

Insurance

$3,700

$3,400

$3,100

Financing

$3,005

$1,343

$954

Fuel

$8,331

$8,331

$8,331

Total Five-Year Cost

$42,484

$28,422

$19,431

Cost Per Mile

$0.57

$0.38

$0.26

 

Hyundai Santa Fe – Crossover SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

43000

93189

Base MSRP

$24,035

$15,934

$7,980

Depreciation

$15,852

$7,751

$0

Repairs

$1,948

$2,248

$2,548

Maintenance

$1,975

$1,975

$1,975

State Fees/Taxes

$2,098

$2,098

$2,098

Insurance

$3,830

$3,530

$3,230

Financing

$2,335

$1,587

$795

Fuel

$11,826

$11,826

$11,826

Total Five-Year Cost

$39,864

$31,015

$22,472

Cost Per Mile

$0.53

$0.41

$0.30

 

Lexus RX – Luxury Crossover SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

30399

102071

Base MSRP

$39,950

$24,498

$15,993

Depreciation

$21,748

$6,296

$0

Repairs

$2,056

$2,356

$2,656

Maintenance

$3,358

$3,358

$3,358

State Fees/Taxes

$3,434

$3,434

$3,434

Insurance

$4,405

$4,105

$3,805

Financing

$3,823

$2,440

$1,593

Fuel

$13,179

$13,179

$13,179

Total Five-Year Cost

$52,003

$35,168

$28,025

Cost Per Mile

$0.69

$0.47

$0.37

 

Audi Q7 – Luxury SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

46489

87718

Base MSRP

$47,125

$30,525

$20,990

Depreciation

$26,795

$10,195

$660

Repairs

$4,092

$4,392

$4,692

Maintenance

$4,093

$4,093

$4,093

State Fees/Taxes

$4,230

$4,230

$4,230

Insurance

$4,440

$4,140

$3,840

Financing

$4,709

$2,159

$2,090

Fuel

$14,881

$14,881

$14,881

Total Five-Year Cost

$63,240

$44,090

$34,486

Cost Per Mile

$0.84

$0.59

$0.46


LUXURY CARS

 

Audi A5 – Luxury Car (first year of production was 2008)

Year

2012

2009

2008

Mileage

0

46726

51751

Base MSRP

$37,975

$30,995

$28,999

Depreciation

$22,784

$15,804

$13,808

Repairs

$3,942

$4,242

$4,542

Maintenance

$4,011

$4,011

$4,011

State Fees/Taxes

$3,418

$3,418

$3,418

Insurance

$5,105

$4,805

$4,505

Financing

$3,805

$3,087

$2,888

Fuel

$11,048

$11,048

$11,048

Total Five-Year Cost

$54,113

$46,415

$44,220

Cost Per Mile

$0.72

$0.62

$0.59

Volvo C30 – Entry Level Luxury Car (first year of production was 2008)

Year

2012

2009

2008

Mileage

0

36248

57879

Base MSRP

$25,575

$17,989

$15,788

Depreciation

$15,870

$8,284

$6,083

Repairs

$2,636

$2,936

$3,236

Maintenance

$2,081

$2,081

$2,081

State Fees/Taxes

$2,266

$2,266

$2,266

Insurance

$4,700

$4,400

$4,100

Financing

$2,523

$1,792

$1,572

Fuel

$11,320

$11,320

$11,320

Total Five-Year Cost

$41,396

$33,079

$30,658

Cost Per Mile

$0.55

$0.44

$0.41

 

Lexus LS – High-End Luxury Car

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

41010

94014

Base MSRP

$68,505

$38,894

$19,388

Depreciation

$45,562

$15,951

$0

Repairs

$2,026

$2,326

$2,626

Maintenance

$3,672

$3,672

$3,672

State Fees/Taxes

$6,120

$6,120

$6,120

Insurance

$7,030

$6,730

$6,430

Financing

$6,812

$3,873

$1,931

Fuel

$14,418

$14,418

$14,418

Total Five-Year Cost

$85,640

$53,090

$35,197

Cost Per Mile

$1.14

$0.71

$0.47

 

Lexus IS F – High-Performance Car (first year of production was 2008)

Year

2012

2009

2008

Mileage

0

33264

50934

Base MSRP

$62,175

$42,988

$36,800

Depreciation

$36,683

$17,496

$11,308

Repairs

$2,016

$2,316

$2,616

Maintenance

$4,077

$4,077

$4,077

State Fees/Taxes

$5,595

$5,595

$5,595

Insurance

$7,900

$7,600

$7,300

Financing

$6,229

$4,281

$3,665

Fuel

$14,640

$14,640

$14,640

Total Five-Year Cost

$77,140

$56,005

$49,201

Cost Per Mile

$1.03

$0.75

$0.66

 

TRUCKS

 

Toyota Tacoma Regular Cab - Mid-Size Pickup

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

30341

106640

Base MSRP

$17,685

$13,900

$9,645

Depreciation

$9,456

$5,671

$1,416

Repairs

$1,767

$2,067

$2,367

Maintenance

$2,212

$2,212

$2,212

State Fees/Taxes

$1,577

$1,577

$1,577

Insurance

$4,880

$4,580

$4,280

Financing

$1,754

$983

$960

Fuel

$11,993

$11,993

$11,993

Total Five-Year Cost

$33,639

$29,083

$24,805

Cost Per Mile

$0.45

$0.39

$0.33

 

Chevrolet Silverado Regular Cab – Full-Size Pickup

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

27538

98446

Base MSRP

$22,940

$13,381

$5,990

Depreciation

$14,082

$4,523

$0

Repairs

$2,166

$2,466

$2,766

Maintenance

$2,301

$2,301

$2,301

State Fees/Taxes

$2,044

$2,044

$2,044

Insurance

$5,200

$4,900

$4,600

Financing

$2,275

$946

$597

Fuel

$16,058

$16,058

$16,058

Total Five-Year Cost

$44,126

$33,238

$28,366

Cost Per Mile

$0.59

$0.44

$0.38

 

CARS

 

Chevrolet Impala – Full-Size Car

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

33254

95838

Base MSRP

$26,585

$11,895

$6,985

Depreciation

$19,034

$4,344

$0

Repairs

$2,196

$2,496

$2,796

Maintenance

$2,650

$2,650

$2,650

State Fees/Taxes

$2,347

$2,347

$2,347

Insurance

$5,025

$4,725

$4,425

Financing

$2,612

$1,185

$696

Fuel

$12,364

$12,364

$12,364

Total Five-Year Cost

$46,228

$30,111

$25,278

Cost Per Mile

$0.62

$0.40

$0.34

 

Hyundai Sonata – Mid-Size Car

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

33419

70652

Base MSRP

$20,455

$11,200

$7,795

Depreciation

$13,498

$4,243

$838

Repairs

$1,828

$2,128

$2,428

Maintenance

$2,166

$2,166

$2,166

State Fees/Taxes

$1,814

$1,814

$1,814

Insurance

$4,405

$4,105

$3,805

Financing

$2,018

$1,115

$776

Fuel

$9,709

$9,709

$9,709

Total Five-Year Cost

$35,438

$25,280

$21,536

Cost Per Mile

$0.47

$0.34

$0.29

 

Nissan Versa – Subcompact Car (first year of production was 2007)

Year

2012

2009

2007

Mileage

0

43000

33053

Base MSRP

$11,770

$7,999

$7,995

Depreciation

$6,270

$2,499

$2,495

Repairs

$1,728

$2,028

$2,328

Maintenance

$2,161

$2,161

$2,161

State Fees/Taxes

$1,045

$1,045

$1,045

Insurance

$4,580

$4,280

$3,980

Financing

$1,163

$797

$796

Fuel

$8,921

$8,921

$8,921

Total Five-Year Cost

$25,868

$21,731

$21,726

Cost Per Mile

$0.34

$0.29

$0.29

 

Mazda MX-5 Miata – Sports Car

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

33796

63088

Base MSRP

$24,265

$16,997

$11,379

Depreciation

$15,276

$8,008

$2,390

Repairs

$1,851

$2,151

$2,451

Maintenance

$2,169

$2,169

$2,169

State Fees/Taxes

$2,117

$2,117

$2,117

Insurance

$4,500

$4,300

$3,900

Financing

$2,355

$1,693

$1,133

Fuel

$11,148

$11,148

$11,148

Total Five-Year Cost

$39,416

$31,486

$25,308

Cost Per Mile

$0.53

$0.42

$0.34

 

MINIVAN

 

Mazda 5 – Minivan

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

51638

87823

Base MSRP

$20,420

$11,986

$7,995

Depreciation

$12,306

$3,872

$0

Repairs

$1,932

$2,232

$2,532

Maintenance

$2,081

$2,081

$2,081

State Fees/Taxes

$1,706

$1,706

$1,706

Insurance

$4,565

$4,265

$3,965

Financing

$1,896

$1193

$796

Fuel

$11,470

$11,470

$11,470

Total Five-Year Cost

$35,956

$26,819

$22,550

Cost Per Mile

$0.48

$0.36

$0.30

 

Honda Odyssey – Minivan

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

33018

88843

Base MSRP

$29,035

$22,991

$9,900

Depreciation

$17,551

$11,507

$0

Repairs

$1,818

$2,118

$2,418

Maintenance

$2,024

$2,024

$2,024

State Fees/Taxes

$2,430

$2,430

$2,430

Insurance

$3,475

$3,175

$2,875

Financing

$2,357

$2,290

$986

Fuel

$13,388

$13,388

$13,388

Total Five-Year Cost

$43,043

$36,932

$24,121

Cost Per Mile

$0.57

$0.48

$0.32

 

Toyota Sienna – Minivan

Year

2012

2009

2006

Mileage

0

50578

98737

Base MSRP

$25,870

$15,940

$9,271

Depreciation

$15,825

$5,895

$0

Repairs

$1,737

$2,037

$2,337

Maintenance

$2,290

$2,290

$2,290

State Fees/Taxes

$2,190

$2,190

$2,190

Insurance

$3,800

$3,500

$3,200

Financing

$2,126

$1,587

$923

Fuel

$13,523

$13,523

$13,523

Total Five-Year Cost

$41,491

$31,022

$24,463

Cost Per Mile

$0.55

$0.41

$0.32

 

You may have noted that there is a clear difference in the cost per mile of driving the newer and older models, one that makes the case for buying an older model. This is the case in spite of the fact that used car inventory is at an all-time low due to recent government incentives to make new car purchases more appealing. That lack of supply has caused the prices of used cars to rise to an all-time high. In a few years we should see this even out again as the stock of used cars increases. Then that difference in the cost of driving new and used cars will be even greater than what you see in this article.

 

The Cost of Depreciation

So what makes that 2009 model so much cheaper to drive than the 2012 model? It’s still a good car, and you’ll still get a lot of miles on it. Let’s think of it this way. You buy a brand new car for $24,000 and drive it for 5 years. At that point your car is now worth $10,000 (and by worth, we mean that’s how much you could sell it for). So you’ve lost or used up $14,000 of your car’s value. Let’s say you put 75,000 miles on it in those 5 years. Now let’s say that you sell your car to someone else. That person just spent 10,000 for a 5-year old car that they will put at least another 75,000 miles on. They spent $4,000 less than you and will get the same use out of that car. What could you do with an extra $4,000? Is the new car smell really worth $4,000? And this is just one example. By reading on you will see that you could be saving $4,000 a year or more on some cars just by purchasing an older vehicle.

Unfortunately, cars lose a huge percentage of their value the first couple of years after they are made. By purchasing a car that is just a few years older, after that initial big drop in value, you can save yourself a lot of money. You will still be able to drive the older car for a long time, and as you do that you are able to use the money that you are saving for the things that are most important to you (i.e. investing, saving for retirement, feeding your family, paying for a child’s braces or college, etc.). When deciding which car to buy, ask yourself how it affects your ability to use the money on those important things. Is it worth giving them up just to have a newer model?

Take a look at the following charts which show the average depreciation in the first 5 years of ownership for the same groups of vehicles. All of the numbers for depreciation by year came from the Kelley Blue Book website.

The very first year shows an incredible amount of value lost in each vehicle. The subsequent years show a downward trend, meaning that you are losing less value each year. There is not anything about a brand new car that makes it worth the money you will lose in the beginning, especially during that first year.

 

Consider Your Budget

 

To put this comparison in another light, we decided to calculate the amount you would save each month and year by purchasing the 2009 or 2006 model instead of the 2012 model. Put these numbers side by side and you can see how much money can be saving on a regular basis. We started with an average of 12,000 miles per year (that’s 1,000 miles per month) to come up with the totals. Would an extra $50 or $100 a month hurt your budget? What about spending an extra $300 or $600 a month?

With the money you save, how long would it take you to save up enough to pay for your next car with cash? And how much could you be putting into your savings and investment accounts so you can earn more interest and be able to afford the things that truly matter to you?

The charts below show the cost of driving either the 2012, 2009, or 2006 model of each car (some are 2007 or 2008 because they are relatively new in production). The yearly and monthly savings totals show how much money you would save by buying that car instead of the 2012 model.

 

SUVs

 

Ford Expedition – Full-Size SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.50 $0.41 $0.34
Cost per month $500 $410 $340
Monthly Savings

 -

$90 $160
Yearly savings

 -

$1,080 $1,920

 

 Jeep Wrangler – Mid-Size SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.77 $0.55 $0.40
Cost per month $770 $550 $400
Monthly Savings

-

$220 $370
Yearly savings

-

$2,640 $4,440

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ford Escape Hybrid – Hybrid SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.57 0.38 0.26
Cost per month $570 $380 $260
Monthly Savings

-

$190 $310
Yearly savings

-

$2,280 $3,720

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hyundai Santa Fe – Crossover SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.53 $0.41 $0.30
Cost per month $530 $410 $300
Monthly Savings

-

$120 $230
Yearly savings

-

$1,440 $2,760

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lexus RX – Luxury Crossover SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.69 $0.47 $0.37
Cost per month $690 $470 $370
Monthly Savings

-

$220 $320
Yearly savings

-

$2,640 $3,840

 

Audi Q7 – Luxury SUV

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.84 $0.59 $0.46
Cost per month $840 $590 $460
Monthly Savings

-

$250 $380
Yearly savings

-

$3,000 $4,560

 

 

 

 

 

 

LUXURY CARS

 

Audi A5 – Luxury Car (first year of production 2008)

Year 2012 2009 2008
Cost Per Mile $0.72 $0.62 $0.59
Cost per month $720 $620 $590
Monthly Savings

-

$100 $130
Yearly savings

-

$1,200 $1,560

 

 Volvo C30 – Entry Level Luxury Car (first year of production 2008)

Year 2012 2009 2008
Cost Per Mile $0.55 $0.44 $0.41
Cost per month $550 $440 $410
Monthly Savings

-

$110 $140
Yearly savings

-

$1,320 $1,680

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lexus LS – High-End Luxury Car

Year 2012 2009 2006
Cost Per Mile $1.14 $0.71 $0.47
Cost per month $1,140 $710 $470
Monthly Savings

-

$430 $670
Yearly savings

-

$5,160 $8,04

 

Lexus IS F – High-Performance Car (first year of production 2008)

Year 2012 2009 2008
Cost Per Mile $1.03 $0.75 $0.66
Cost per month $1,030 $750 $660
Monthly Savings

-

$280 $370
Yearly savings

-

$3,360 $4,440

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TRUCKS

 

Toyota Tacoma Regular Cab – Mid-Size Pickup

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.45 $0.39 $0.33
Cost per month $450 $390 $330
Monthly Savings

-

$60 $120
Yearly savings

-

$720 $1,440

 

 

Chevrolet Silverado Regular Cab – Full-Size Pickup

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.59 $0.44 $0.38
Cost per month $590 $440 $380
Monthly Savings

-

$150 $210
Yearly savings

-

$1,800 $2,520

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CARS

 

Chevrolet Impala – Full-Size Car

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.62 $0.40 $0.34
Cost per month $620 $400 $340
Monthly Savings

-

$220 $280
Yearly savings

-

$2,640 $3,360

 

Hyundai Sonata – Mid-Size Car

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.47 $0.34 $0.29
Cost per month $470 $340 $290
Monthly Savings

-

$130 $180
Yearly savings

-

$1,560 $2,160

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nissan Versa – Subcompact Car (first year – 2007)

Year

2012

2009

2007

Cost Per Mile $0.34 $0.29 $0.29
Cost per month $340 $290 $290
Monthly Savings

-

$50 $50
Yearly savings

-

$600 $600

 

Mazda MX-5 Miata – Sports Car

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.53 $0.30 $0.34
Cost per month $530 $420 $340
Monthly Savings

-

$110 $190
Yearly savings

-

$1,320 $2,280

 

 

 

 

 

 

MINIVANS

 

Mazda 5 – Minivan

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.48 $0.36 $0.30
Cost per month $480 $360 $300
Monthly Savings

-

$120 $180
Yearly savings

-

$1,440 $2,160

 

 Honda Odyssey – Minivan

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.57 $0.48 $0.32
Cost per month $570 $480 $320
Monthly Savings

-

$90 $250
Yearly savings

-

$1,080 $3,000

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Toyota Sienna – Minivan

Year

2012

2009

2006

Cost Per Mile $0.55 $0.41 $0.32
Cost per month $550 $410 $320
Monthly Savings

-

$140 $230
Yearly savings

-

$1,680 $2,760

 

Location and Timing Are Important Factors When Buying a Car

When you start your “new” car search, you don’t have to stick to finding a car down the street from your house. If you are able to get a great deal on a car that is out of state, you may find that you can still save a lot of money by paying to go get it. For example, Bill lives in Colorado and found a car in New York that was $3,000 less than he could find it in-state. So he paid $800 to have the car shipped to Colorado and ended up saving $2,200 on his used car.

When you purchase a car, it is a good idea to pay attention to the time of the year and demand for that particular car. For example, you would not want to buy a luxury car in California because that’s what most of the people there are looking to drive, and that demand drives prices up. But if you were to look in a small town in Oklahoma, you may be able to find a great deal on a luxury vehicle. Or if you want to buy a 4WD SUV in Colorado, don’t try to buy it in the winter, especially right after the first big snow of the season. That’s when everybody is in a panic and looking for their own 4WD SUV. Wait until summer when other buyers are looking for their convertibles and smaller cars.

One note when buying a car out of state: Make sure you are getting what you think you are paying for. A man from Colorado we talked to recently bought his SUV in Texas because he found an incredible deal online. What he didn’t realize, though, was that this car only had 2WD so when he got it home he had a difficult time driving it through the Colorado snow. Do your research on potential differences in the car’s features and what issues it may have. If you are buying a car from Florida or any other coastal state, you may want to read up or talk to some informed people about the potential of damage from salt (from the ocean’s water in the air) to the bottom of the car. Or if you are thinking of buying a car from Louisiana consider whether it may have been in the floods a few years back. You do not want to buy a car that was ever completely submerged in water! The biggest thing is to do your homework before you buy. It may take some time, but you can save a lot of money and stress in the long run.

 

Where to Search for Your Car

There are many good places to search for your car, including some great places online: YahooAuto, Autotrader, craigslist, CarsDirect, and numerous others. Take the time to do your research by checking several of these sites and comparing what you find.

You can also work with a local dealer who may be able to help you find exactly the car you want. Suppose you are looking for a car that is fairly common but want a feature like a sport rack (or the sport model of that vehicle). A local dealer may be able to get in touch with other dealers to locate that car and transport it from wherever it currently resides. If you live in the Denver metro area, a great company to go through is Automotive Avenues. Another benefit of Automotive Avenues is that they work with credit unions for financing. (The difference between banks and credit unions is a whole other article, but ask us about it if you have questions or would like to know more).

 

Why You Should Pay Cash Instead of Getting an Auto Loan

You may have noticed in the numbers above, the cost of financing is included. This is because a large number of people have to get a loan to pay for their new car. But if you would save up and pay cash for your next car, you could make a big impact on your monthly cash flow. You would also be able to enjoy the freedom of owning your car immediately without the burden of debt and monthly payments.

So how much could you save? If you go back to the charts above and look in the “financing” row, you will see exactly how much you could save over a 5 year period if you were to pay cash instead of getting an auto loan. Below are a few examples of how much you can realistically save when you buy a higher priced, average priced, or lower priced car based on the vehicles included in this article.

We have broken it down to show you how much you would save over 5 years of ownership and what that savings would be to you yearly and monthly. With so many people living month to month in today’s economy, we know that being able to see the immediate monthly savings is useful. And being able to see the annual and 5-year figures will help you get a look into the bigger picture of how much you are saving.

 

LOWER PRICED VEHICLE

Mazda5 – Minivan

Model Year

2012

2009

2006

Purchase Price

$20,420

$11,986

$7,995

Monthly savings

$32

$20

$13

Yearly savings

$379

$239

$159

5-year Savings

$1,896

$1,193

$796

 

AVERAGE PRICED VEHICLE

Ford Escape Hybrid – SUV

Model Year

2012

2009

2006

Purchase Price

$31,395

$18,995

$9,575

Monthly savings

$50

$22

$16

Yearly savings

$601

$269

$191

5-year Savings

$3,005

$1,343

$954

 

HIGHER PRICED VEHICLE

Lexus LS – High-End Luxury Car

Model Year

2012

2009

2006

Purchase Price

$24,035

$15,934

$7,980

Monthly savings

$114

$65

$32

Yearly savings

$1,362

$775

$386

5-year Savings

$6,812

$3,873

$1,931

 

Would an extra $32, $50, or even $114 make a difference to you each month? Could you use an extra $250 or $500 a year? That difference could mean the ability to pay down debt faster or getting to go out for a fun activity as a family to spend quality time together. Paying cash for your car can open up money in your monthly cash flow that you would otherwise have tied up in debt. When you save up for your car ahead of time you have the freedom of not only owning your car outright, but you also get to choose how to spend that money and can put it towards your top financial priorities.

 

How to Save Up Cash for Your Next Car Purchase

Saving up for a new, or “new,” car is really not as hard as it sounds. You can start saving by first taking a good look at your budget and making some adjustments. First, do you have a budget? If you can add and subtract, then you can keep a budget. It is very important to know what money is coming in and going out of your house so you know how much you can save. And when you have a budget you are able to rank your priorities and spend more according to what is important to you. If you are saving up for a car and know that you need to make some room in your budget for saving, it might be easier to give up your daily trips to Starbucks or to take a sack lunch instead of going out every day. When you have a picture in mind of the car you want and know what you need to save, it is easier to give up things that get you off track or keep you from saving. This is not to say you have to give up all your rewards or Starbucks trips, but you have a better idea of where you can cut back and make changes.

It is a good idea to set goals for yourself so that the task doesn’t seem so huge. Deciding to save $10,800 in the next 3 years can sound huge. But if you instead set a goal to save $900 in the next 90 days, you may find the task a little easier, and over 3 years with this 90-day goal continuously going, you would reach your big goal of $10,800. When you set goals for saving up for your next car, make sure that they are realistic and achievable but challenging, and not so far out there that you will forget about them or so near that you don’t have enough time to achieve them. In that light, 90 day goals can be very useful and help you reach your dream of paying cash for your next car.

Another way to think of saving up for your next car is to make payments to yourself. Each month put a “payment” in a savings account specifically for your car. This way it is as if you are making car payments without the added interest you would be giving to a dealer. If you start doing this as soon as your current car is paid off, you should be able to save up enough for your next car in plenty of time. By doing this, you are giving yourself time to save up enough and avoid thousands of dollars in interest for financing the vehicle, thousands of dollars that you can instead be putting in a fund for your next car or into your savings and investment accounts to help pay for things that are truly important to you.

 

Final Notes

So the next time you are in the market for a “new” car and wonder whether you should buy the newest of the new, take a moment to consider whether it is really worth it to you to pay all that extra money just for the new car smell and the bragging rights to say you own the latest model (which will be normal-smelling and not the newest version anymore within the next 6 months).

The best option is to search for a car that is a few years older and has already gone through most of its depreciation. You can still drive a very nice car that will last a long time, but you will be able to save a lot of money.

And if you have any questions about this, please feel free to get in touch with us. We’d be more than happy to talk you through the process and help you decide what you can afford to spend on a car and how much you should be putting into saving and investing so that you are able to reach your financial goals.

 

If you would like a printable version of this article please see the New vs Used Car PDF.

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iMoneyCoach on April 25th, 2012

Did you know that your small, daily habits are the ones that have the biggest impact on your financial future? If you want to reach your financial goals (i.e. retirement, save money for kids’ college, be able to take a grand vacation, pay off all your debt, buy a new car, etc.), then you need to make sure that your habits will get you there.

What are some healthy financial habits you can create?

  • Make lists. Before you go shopping make a list of the things you need so you can avoid impulse buying (i.e. don’t buy it if it’s not on the list!).
  • Save, save, save. Saving is a good habit no matter how you do it. You can do things like set up your automatic deposit so that part of your paycheck automatically goes into savings. Or every time you pay with cash, put the change in a jar that you periodically take to the bank.
  • Pay your bills on time and in full each month. This will help you avoid unnecessary late fees and increased interest rates.
  • Keep track of your expenses. Creating a budget is not as hard as it may seem. If you can add and subtract, you can work a budget. The trick is to know what you are earning and spending so you can make adjustments.

How can you make those habits stick?

  • Write down what you want to do and accomplish. Did you know that the simple act of putting something in writing makes you more likely to follow through with it?
  • Give it time. It takes about 27 days to make something a habit. In just under a month, you could develop a healthy habit that will help you reach success. When you get going, sometimes a month can seem like a long time, but stick with it. Take it one day at a time.
  • Give yourself reminders. Put sticky notes where you will see them to remind you what you want to accomplish as you brush your teeth, cook dinner, sit at your desk, walk out the door, etc. In case you ]start to lose sight of your commitment, having reminders in places you will see them will help you stay strong.
  • Get the family involved. Discuss with your spouse and children the new habits you want to form and have them help you, or develop those habits as a family. You can gain much support and encouragement from those closest to you, especially if you are encouraging them at the same time.
  • Change how you talk and think. If you make a mistake and either forget to do your habit or slip into an old, bad habit, don’t berate yourself. Instead say to yourself, “Hmm, that is odd. That is a behavior I used to do, but now I do (insert activity) instead.”
  • Eliminate temptation. The easiest way to fall back into an old habit is to have the temptation right there in front of you. Try to find ways to either get rid of that temptation altogether or produce a different response when it is there. For example, sometimes when a person who is trying to quit smoking gets the urge to light a cigarette he will instead start snapping his fingers. This replaces a harmful behavior with a neutral one.

Sit down today and write out some new financial habits you would like to form. While it’s never too late to start fixing your finances or managing them better, the sooner you start the more successful you’ll be. If you have any questions or need more ideas for financial good habits you can work on, let us know! And if you have found some good habits that have worked for you, be sure to leave a comment so others might be able to try them too.

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iMoneyCoach on April 18th, 2012

If you were to think of a way to get out of debt and learn how to manage your finances successfully (yes, even get to a place where money earned from your investments is more than what you spend each month) that is convenient and fits your schedule, what would that look like? This is the question that iMoneyCoach tackled in building the iMoneyCoach University.

For several years we met with clients, and still do, in our office in Wheat Ridge, Colorado. Even by making exceptions and scheduling the occasional evening meeting, we still found that it is hard for people to break away from their daily responsibilities to come meet about finances, especially couples who need to work together on their money situation. We have done Skype calls and phone conferences, but still we needed a way to reach people that was more convenient for them.

In thinking about convenience, we also wanted to make sure that we did not lose any of the meat of our iMoneyCoach program. We teach people how to manage their finances successfully AND find what we call Life Balance, which is vital to financial success. It is important to us that if we are going to be reaching out and teaching people about money, that no matter how we do that, we are still able to deliver it in a way that ensures success for our clients.

The result of much brainstorming and a LOT of work is the iMoneyCoach University. This is a website that offers online finance courses that you can take on your own time, when it is convenient for you. If you have time in the evening after you put the kids to bed, then you can learn about money management then. If Saturday morning in your jammies is the best time for you to discover how to be successful, great! Our courses are available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 52 weeks a year. We designed them to be self-standing so that you can access them whenever it is most convenient for YOU.

The courses are designed to be easy and straightforward, but still give you all the information you need to reach financial freedom. In the iMoneyCoach Financial Life Training System you will find 10 different sections that each take approximately 1 hour to complete. We believe that if you can find 10 hours over the stretch of a few months, you can be well on your way to financial freedom. For those who maybe just want a smaller section of what we offer in the Financial Life Training System, perhaps someone who wants to focus only on getting out of debt for now, we have made several sections of the iMoneyCoach Financial Life Training System available as individual courses. So if you want to focus on debt, you can go through The Debtinator as a standalone course. Or if you don’t have debt and want to learn about budgeting, you might try our Budgeting Course. Of course, if you want to learn about both of those topics but don’t want to go through the whole system, you might try our combo deal, the Budgeting and Debt Elimination course. Our goal is to be accommodating to your needs and still deliver a great product.

So what’s included in these courses? Well, we know that people have different learning styles and get some ideas in different ways. So we have included videos, quizzes, stories and examples, worksheets, and even fully narrated each course. This rich, interactive experience will help you get the most out of our finance courses. We wanted to be sure that if you couldn’t meet with us face-to-face, you would not lose any of the value of our financial life coaching program.

What are you waiting for? Head on over to the iMoneyCoach University and sign up for a course today! I recommend the full iMoneyCoach Financial Life Training System because it is sure to cover your financial situation and get you to a place where you can reach financial freedom AND enjoy your life along the way. If you have any questions about the courses or want to know more, be sure to let me know. And you can always learn more about how iMoneyCoach works.

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